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Clothing industry follow TV fashions

Tag: Gossip Girl fashion When actress Leighton Meester dons a new headband or colored tights — with contrasting fishnets on top, no less — she can set off a virtual race to the cash register. The same goes for her Gossip Girl co-stars, whose fashions can be found on The CW cable channel's website, which typically enjoys a big post-show uptick in visitors. The Gossip Girl phenomenon — which mirrors the impact Sex and the City had on high-end footwear sales — shows how retailers can capitalize on trends in popular culture. It also illustrates how vital it is for them to quickly seize on the hottest clothes and accessories, given today's impressionable young shoppers, and to closely track sales to avoid shortages of the latest fashion passion. Trend watchers at retailers including Target and J.C. Penney monitor fashion-forward people in cities around the globe. Increasingly, though, retailers also need to watch a lot of TV and movies and read stacks of celebrity magazines, lest they miss out on the Next Big Thing. As recently as a couple of years ago, trend spotting often had to be done a year in advance — for next summer's seasons, say, even before the current summer's merchandise had been sold. Penney and other retailers were forced to make "educated guesses," as President Ken Hicks calls them, based more on speculation than hard data. Now, thanks to advanced software and computer systems, months have been shaved off the time needed to achieve "concept to cash," as Steve & Barry's calls it. Stores can closely monitor what styles are selling, at what rate and in which sizes. Department stores and the larger specialty chains can better compete with boutiques. They're also better positioned to take on such retailers as H&M, Zara and Forever 21, which specialize in moving the latest styles into, and out of, stores with sizzling speed. "It tells the retailer what's selling and what's not selling, so they get higher inventory turns," says retail analyst Jennifer Black of Jennifer Black & Associates. "If you want to be more productive, you have to turn (merchandise) faster." Especially if you want to attract trend-conscious young shoppers. "Younger people of this generation are more much interested in fashion than they were when I was in high school," says 29-year-old Meredith Barnett, founder of StoreAdore.com, a guide to retail boutiques. "Most of the reason they are so interested is they are so much more exposed to it. They are highly influenced by what they see on TV and what they see celebrities wear." If they watch Gossip Girl and see a lot of "girly headbands," Barnett says, it isn't long before you see them on young women everywhere. Her website, which features top boutiques in several cities, is helping accelerate the trend. Earlier this month, it touted its picks for the best headbands. Celebrity-inspired fashion has "definitely been amped up," says Gossip Girl costume designer Eric Daman. A former assistant designer on that über-trend-conscious show Sex and the City, Daman says he's been amazed by how much faster buzz flies about Gossip Girl's fashions in today's social-network-dominated era than it did in the heyday of Sex and the City. There's even been talk at stores in New York, including Barney's, of displaying clothes in a way that helps shoppers achieve the Serena or Blair look, Damon says. (Serena is Lively's character; Leighton Meester plays Blair.) "The girls' names are becoming like labels, " Daman says. "It's almost kind of crazy to see how great the reaction is to it." When Hicks saw a photo of Angelina Jolie at the Cannes Film Festival wearing a batik dress, he knew the batik trend would be hot. Penney is stocking a hefty selection of the Indian-inspired print this summer. And its improved inventory systems mean it can get more such apparel into stores quickly if the trend really has legs. That's the importance of what retailers call "cycle time" — how long it takes to turn a sketch into something hanging on a store rack. It's being "able to react to what the trends are in season," Hicks says. Penney will carry more pink, Hicks says, in part because of the color's prevalence in the new Sex and the City movie, along with such celebrity favorites as aviator glasses, white jeans and ombre prints. Even some shoppers who aren't trying to emulate celebrities seem to be attracted to "fast fashion." Avery Jaffe, 22, says she likes Forever 21 and H&M because they help her stay current on fashions, even if, she says, the clothes don't always last as long as she'd like. "They both bounce back the trends rapidly," says Jaffe of Atlanta. "We post on Facebook what we wore out the last night and have to have different outfits (and) looks each time." Celebrity-driven style is hardly limited to teens or twenty-somethings. Jaye Hersh, owner of Los Angeles boutique Intuition, says that just as young shoppers in her store will want a purse they see Miley Cyrus buying; older shoppers will do the same for celebrities closer to their own ages. "It crosses the ages," says Hersh, who says her boutique is a favorite of the Desperate Housewives and of such stars as Jessica Simpson. If women buy something a celebrity is wearing, "They can pretend they have a piece of some shiny life and feel like theirs is a little more exciting." 
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Apparel and fashion\'s carbon footprint

On a Saturday afternoon, a group of teenage girls leaf through glossy fashion magazines at a New Jersey outlet mall. Shopping bags brimming with new purchases lay at their feet while they talk excitedly about what's in style to wear this summer. Far away in Tanzania, a young man proudly wears a basketball shirt imprinted with the logo of an NBA team while shopping at the local mitumba market for pants that will fit his slender figure. Although seemingly disparate, these two scenes are connected through the surprising life cycle of clothing. How does a T-shirt originally sold in a U.S. shopping mall to promote an American sports team end up being worn by an African teen? Globalization, consumerism, and recycling all converge to connect these scenes. Globalization has made it possible to produce clothing at increasingly lower prices, prices so low that many consumers consider this clothing to be disposable. Some call it "fast fashion," the clothing equivalent of fast food. Fast fashion provides the marketplace with affordable apparel aimed mostly at young women. Fueling the demand are fashion magazines that help create the desire for new "must-haves" for each season. "Girls especially are insatiable when it comes to fashion. They have to have the latest thing, always. And since it is cheap, you buy more of it. Our closets are full," says Mayra Diaz, mother of a 10-year-old girl and a buyer in the fashion district of New York City. Disposable couture appears in shopping mall after shopping mall in America and Europe at prices that make the purchase tempting and the disposal painless. Yet fast fashion leaves a pollution footprint, with each step of the clothing life cycle generating potential environmental and occupational hazards. For example, polyester, the most widely used manufactured fiber, is made from petroleum. With the rise in production in the fashion industry, demand for man-made fibers, especially polyester, has nearly doubled in the last 15 years, according to figures from the Technical Textile Markets. The manufacture of polyester and other synthetic fabrics is an energy-intensive process requiring large amounts of crude oil and releasing emissions including volatile organic compounds, particulate matter, and acid gases such as hydrogen chloride, all of which can cause or aggravate respiratory disease. Volatile monomers, solvents, and other by-products of polyester production are emitted in the wastewater from polyester manufacturing plants. The EPA, under the Resource Conservation and Recovery Act, considers many textile manufacturing facilities to be hazardous waste generators. Issues of environmental health and safety do not apply only to the production of man-made fabrics. Cotton, one of the most popular and versatile fibers used in clothing manufacture, also has a significant environmental footprint. This crop accounts for a quarter of all the pesticides used in the United States, the largest exporter of cotton in the world, according to the USDA. The U.S. cotton crop benefits from subsidies that keep prices low and production high. The high production of cotton at subsidized low prices is one of the first spokes in the wheel that drives the globalization of fashion. Bringing Clothes to Market Fast, the Global Way Much of the cotton produced in the United States is exported to China and other countries with low labor costs, where the material is milled, woven into fabrics, cut, and assembled according to the fashion industry's specifications. China has emerged as the largest exporter of fast fashion, accounting for 30% of world apparel exports, according to the UN Commodity Trade Statistics database. In her 2005 book The Travels of a T-Shirt in the Global Economy, Pietra Rivoli, a professor of international business at the McDonough School of Business of Georgetown University, writes that each year Americans purchase approximately 1 billion garments made in China, the equivalent of four pieces of clothing for every U.S. citizen. According to figures from the U.S. National Labor Committee, some Chinese workers make as little as 12–18 cents per hour working in poor conditions. And with the fierce global competition that demands ever lower production costs, many emerging economies are aiming to get their share of the world's apparel markets, even if it means lower wages and poor conditions for workers. Increasingly, clothing being imported to the United States comes from countries as diverse as Honduras and Bangladesh.
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Cherokee, Rodriguez signs agreement

Cherokee clothing manufacturer, a leading licensor and global brand management company, announced today that it has signed an exclusive brand representation agreement with award-winning fashion designer David Rodriguez. Extraordinary style, focus and work ethic defines designer David Rodriguez, who is emerging as one of America's brightest stars in the fashion world. Rodriguez has received well-deserved recognition from the fashion industry, winning major awards and nominations, including: the Moet and Chandon Designer Debut award, the MODA award for Hispanic Designer of the Year, the Gold Coast Award, the Fashion Group International Rising Star Award, and the Smithsonian Latino Center Legacy Award. Combining his unique use of fine fabrics and styling to complement feminine curves, David Rodriguez has become a favorite among Hollywood celebrities, who rely upon his designs to make a major impact at red carpet events. "We chose to collaborate with Cherokee based on the successful partnerships they've engineered with leading designers and premier retailers in the United States, including TJX Co., Target and Wal-Mart," said Brandon Houchins, President, J.C. SOHO, LLC. 

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Vera Wang positive over fashion industry

Women's apparel and fashion industry designer Vera Wang, well aware of the pressures a sluggish economy has put on the world of fashion, said she remains optimistic the industry has the allure needed to get through tough times. "Fashion is an expendable commodity, but it also brings such joy and fantasy and fun to women's lives," the designer of the New York-based and closely held company bearing her name said in an interview. "For that reason, fashion will prevail ultimately." Watch interview with Vera Wang. Wang may know better. Since opening a bridal salon at the Carlyle Hotel on New York's Madison Avenue in 1990 and weathering past rounds of economic downturns, she has expanded her fashion business from designing gowns for brides to a full ensemble of ready-to-wear clothing, fragrance and home furnishing products. Wang's name, through exclusive partnerships, also accompanied flowers, a luxury hotel suite in Hawaii and an apparel collection at mid-priced retailer Kohl's Corp. One of her next moves: Open more stores. "This plan was made about two years ago," the designer said, without giving more details. "There's no question that many people in fashion have felt the repercussions of the recession. I'm fairly thorough about looking at the sell- through. I feel fairly optimistic that by the time they get done, hopefully the economy will be on the rebound." While the declining housing and credit markets and soaring gasoline prices and food costs have hurt consumer confidence, cutting into their discretionary spending, many retailers said the right fashions and products that give shoppers excitement still sell. Luxury retailer Nordstrom Inc., which sells items such as Vera Wang fragrance and sleepwear set, said Thursday its designer products across all categories, intimate apparel and cosmetics were performing well even as it reported a 24% drop in first-quarter profit and lowered its outlook for the year, citing uncertainty in consumer spending. Saks Inc., also a Vera Wang customer carrying her merchandise such as a $850 strapless gown, said earlier this month that women's designer apparel was among its strongest categories. Kohl's, which also reported a quarterly profit drop and trimmed its outlook for the year, said Thursday it expects its Simply Vera Vera Wang collection, including T-shirts and shower curtains and launched last year, will continue to be in demand along with some of its other exclusive products. "They would probably feel we've performed very well," Wang said, adding she wasn't at liberty to give details about that business. 

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Eco-friendly fibers all the rage

 

Khadi, jute, bamboo, straw. These eco-friendly fibers are guaranteed to strike terror in the heart of any fashion expert, irrespective of how politically brave a face she puts on. And all this recent talk of eco-friendly fashion is not helping any. Until now. A brave, intrepid lot of designers have taken it upon themselves to do their clothes — achkans to hot pants — without offending nature. The definition of what makes a collection friendly to nature varies from designer to retailer and every other agent in between. “My collection is inspired by nature”. That line is no longer working and designers are being forced to confront other words — organic, bio-degradable, vegetable dyes. “An eco-friendly fabric is quite simply defined as one where the fiber is bio-degradable,” explains designer Deepika Govind, who has been regularly showcasing collections made of natural material. “Cotton is a natural fabric, but normally cotton is grown with the use of a number of pesticides. In the case of eco-friendly fabrics, no harmful chemicals or pesticides have been used in the growth or manufacturing process. Further, you have the usage of eco-friendly dyes, such as vegetable dyes, etc.” For designer Payal Jain, “the entire process of weaving, printing and dyeing and embellishing the garment must be environment friendly”. So the yarn used to weave the fabric must not have any synthetic dyes or animal products added, while the looms must not waste yarn, but rather reuse and recycle them, she says. “The dyes used must be made from natural and organic elements with no acidic and synthetic additions. The colors used for printing should be natural and the printing techniques be as environment friendly as possible.” She even stresses that the working conditions of a factory where the stitching or embroidery is done must be of a certain standard and the recycling of wastes, generated from production, a must. This is a process which Companies like Birla Cellulose are eager to promote with the introduction of new technologies. “We want to promote the existing environment friendly, nature based fibers which are comparable to the best in the world,” says Manohar Samuel, Senior Vice President, Birla Cellulose. “Our effort is to make the entire process of going from fiber to fashion eco-friendly,” he explains. The company, to promote the cause of eco-fashion, aligned with nine new generation designers at the recently concluded Wills India Fashion Week. “The whole procedure has to be non-metallic, non-toxic and definitely bio-degradable, underlines designer Charu Parashar, one of the designers who worked with Birla Cellulose. There are a lot of steps involved in getting to the fabric, she explains. To begin, specially designed ‘hybrids of wood’ are grown, which are transformed into ‘wood pulp and further to ‘pulp sheets’. Then it is treated with alkaline solution, which transforms it into a powder form called ‘Alk Cell’. Then it is treated with Carbon disulphide (CS2) by which the pulp is transformed into ‘cellulose’ or liquid form. This, treated with alkaline, makes it ‘viscose’ which under high pressure transforms to filament. This can be transformed to fiber, yarn and finally fabric, where the designer steps in. 

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